COUI Skincare Super C Serum

30 ml, 16 fl oz
Serum with a derivative of Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), not the well-studied ascorbic acid. This dermatologist approved serum with collagen, Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), and vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, and ferulic acid may help rejuvenate skin.

Best For
Skin soothing, moisturizing, and rejuvenation [1, 2]; Improved skin health [1-5]
Strength
2/5
Results
2/5
Safety
5/5
Ingredients of Concern

Phenoxyethanol, Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) has unknown safety

    • Non-GMO
    • Cruelty-free
    • Paraben-free
    • Pros:
    • May help with anti-aging although this serum contains a derivative of Vitamin C NOT the well-studied ascorbic acid
    • Dermatologist approved, skincare serum with vitamin C, vitamin E, Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), collagen, ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid
    • Promotes younger-looking skin
    • Suitable for all skin types
    • Recommended for mature skin, aging skin, sensitive, and damaged skin (e.g. acne, itchy, dry skin)
    • Exfoliating ingredients penetrate deep below the surface of the skin
    • May help with collagen production which restores skin elasticity and structure
    • Hydrating
    • Firms, tightens, revives, and brightens the skin
    • Natural active ingredients
    • Can be used day or night
    • Scientifically-formulated by world-renowned biochemist and medical experts
    • Paraben-free
    • Cruelty-free
    • Alcohol-free

    Ingredients Concern: Phenoxyethanol,(in low amounts this is considered safe), Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) has unknown safety

    Cons:

    Contains a derivative of Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) and NOT the L ascorbic acid which has been shown in scientific studies to produce anti-aging benefits

    It is unclear whether the Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate in this serum will convert into ascorbic acid in the body and produce the same results that Vitamin C is known for.

    There is not sufficient scientific evidence in human studies to prove that this serum will yield the same positive results that has already been shown with other Vitamin C serums.


    Should be refrigerated to improve outcomes and shelf life


    Phenoxyethanol has an EWG score between 2-4, depending on its usage

    OUI Skincare co-founder, Alessandra Poletti, use to suffer from really bad breakouts on her face and no product worked for her. So she set out on a mission to research ingredients and partnered up with skincare expert, Dr. Sivak who is a renowned biochemist with over 45 years of experience. They invented the COUI products with the mission to show that great skin and the revolutionary products that help you achieve it, can be yours and you can afford it. She says that every drop of ingredient in her products is made up of our love for your skin.

    This serum does not contain Vitamin C "ascorbic acid" which is the ingredient that has been proven in human studies to have anti-aging benefits. It contains magnesium ascorbyl phosphate which is a derivative of Vitamin C. On a positive note, This derivative has been found to be more stable than Vitamin C ascorbic acid, and some studies in mice showed that it does convert to L ascorbic acid in the body.

    However, many scientists believe that you must have ascorbic acid in a serum to be effective in providing anti-aging benefits.

    For example, one study stated that "It should also be mentioned that there is an increasing number of ascorbic acid-based topical cosmetics available on the market, and it seems that not all preparations of topical ascorbic acid are effective. Many of these products use derivatives, esters, and analogs of ascorbic acid that do not penetrate the skin, do not chemically convert to L-ascorbic acid (the only form that can be used by the body), and/or are not delivered in adequate concentration. These ascorbic acid substitutes include ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbic acid sulfate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, and ascorbic acid magnesium phosphate, which are easily stabilized but must be converted to L-ascorbate to be effectively useful. There is no direct evidence that ascorbic acid derivatives enter the skin in appreciable amounts, and it seems that their conversion to L-ascorbate is largely inefficient, thus precluding effective concentration delivery. [13]

    Another study also states that "Formulations containing derivatives of ascorbic acid have been found to be more stable, but they DO NOT produce the same effect as that of the parent compound." [12]

    If this form of Vitamin C derivative in this serum does effectively convert into ascorbic acid and work, then we may consider looking at the results that have been shown for ascorbic acid. Topical ascorbic acid has been shown to stimulate collagen growth and protect skin from erythema, the redness caused by UV rays from the sun. [15] It has also been shown to help reduce fine wrinkles, improve skin firmness and tone, improve yellowness and sallowness. [13]

    As for the other ingredients in this serum, Marine kelp is a good source of vitamin C that further supports the production of collagen in the skin. Kelp is also a rich source of zinc, which demonstrates anti-inflammatory activity that is linked to its ability to target skin problems such as acne and it also speeds up the body's natural wound healing capabilities [4-7]. Hydrolyzed collagen supplementation safely enhances the body's production of collagen and research shows that this structural protein has positive health-enhancing properties on the skin [8, 9]. Hyaluronic acid has moisturizing properties that are beneficial for the skin [10]. Epidermal growth factor (EGF) plays a major role in wound healing, and it is one of several growth factors that support the proper healing of wounds [11].

    Skin soothing, moisturizing, and rejuvenation [1, 2]; Improved skin health [1-5]
    Vitamin C acts directly upon collagen metabolism by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin fibers [1]. Collagen production is vital for healthy skin, bones, tendons, and muscles. Plant sources such as marine kelp also contain powerful bioflavonoids that combat cell damage that is linked to free radicals and they subsequently promote detoxification, which dramatically improves health [2, 3]. The vitamin C and zinc in marine kelp also support skin health by promoting detoxification (e.g., UV exposure, skin irritants, or pollution) and it also has anti-inflammatory properties that heighten the wound healing process [4-7]. Hydrolyzed collagen supplementation increases the levels of collagen in the body naturally [8], this has been shown to increase the structure and elasticity in skin cells [9]. Taking hydrolyzed collagen also improves the body's ability to promote wound healing [8, 9]. Hyaluronic acid hydrates the skin and helps it retain moisture [10]. Epidermal growth factor (EGF) supports healthy skin by promoting the healing of damaged, irritated skin [11]. Research shows that chronic wounds tend to have lower levels of epidermal growth factor (EGF) than short-term wounds; thusly supplementation with this growth factor can dramatically improve the health of the skin [11].

    Key Ingredients: Kelp Ferment Filtrate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) (% were not listed)

    All Ingredients: Distilled Water, Kelp Ferment Filtrate, Glycerol, Sodium PCA, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Carnosine (L-), Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Centella asiatica Extract, Xanthan Gum, Thioredoxin, N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, Betulinic Acid, Glutathione, Citric Acid, Lemon Extract, Optiphen Plus (Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid)

    Cleanse and dry skin. Shake product well. Apply in small amounts--just a few drops--to face, jawline, neck and decolletage areas. This is a richly textured and highly concentrated serum so use just a small amount to enable the serum to absorb quickly and to minimize stickiness. Adjust gradually, as needed. Allow time to absorb prior to moisturizer application. Use up to twice daily. For added results and shelf life, we recommend keeping the serum refrigerated.
    These statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.
    12. Sheraz, MA et al. “Formulation and Stability of Ascorbic Acid in Topical Preparations.” Systematic Reviews in Pharmacy 2.2 (2011): 86. Web. 13. Traikovich SS. Use of Topical Ascorbic Acid and Its Effects on Photodamaged Skin Topography. Arch Otolaryngol Head Neck Surg. 1999;125(10):1091–1098. doi:10.1001/archotol.125.10.1091 14. Heber GK, Markovic B, Hayes A. An immunohistological study of anhydrous topical ascorbic acid compositions on ex vivo human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006 Jun;5(2):150-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2006.00242.x. PMID: 17173590. 15. DRAELOS, Z. K. (2016). Cosmeceuticals. https://www.clinicalkey.com/dura/browse/bookChapter/3-s2.0-C20130097939.
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